What started out as a three to four day mini adventure ended with at least one night of bliss away from the rat race. Tucked in behind the sand dunes the Coral Sea's waves whispered me to sleep after a solid day's pedalling.
I had spent the few days prior to this trip modifying the mountain bike to carry a little extra along the way. The Blackburn Outpost Cages bound to the forks with sturdy stainless hose clamps allowed me to carry two litre bottles up front. The cheap department store bottle cages clamped to the seat stays to carry one litre bottles at the rear.
I had purchased some bikepacking gear well before Christmas last year but had never used it. That was a Blackburn Outpost Handlebar Roll, a Azur Half Framebag and an Azur eight litre Seat Pack. I had also purchased a hammock from FE Active to try. The idea of hammock camping has had my interest for a while now, so it was the perfect time to try it out.
Leaving mid morning, the wind had already started to blow. I held the trip over from the previous week for the same problem. The weather had been perfect until it was the day to leave. It's always the way.
I had found some back roads and tracks through scrub behind my neighbourhood so I used these to make my way South East toward Kinkuna.
This was the first biking trip that I had undertaken in ages so I was pumped and rearing to go. I had no intentions of going fast, and I just wanted to take in the ambience of the freedom a ride like this gives.
The plan was three to four nights, making my way down through the Kinkuna section of the National Park. From there I would head further south to Burrum Pt Camp Grounds. From there I would make a decision to either head north via the way I had come, or head west to Childers and across to Cordalba State Forest.
So back to the back roads... I continued on gravel for the first tenor so kilometres. But it wasn't long before I was back on the bitumen. The mountain bike tyres hummed on the black top with a kind of enjoyment. I had clamped some cages to the front forks and the seat stays for extra water. The new gear seemed to be hanging in very well, so all was going to plan.
Out near Coonar now I turned off and began to follow Palm Beach Road. I am well aware of the sand mine out this way, so I was cautious of the heavy vehicle that frequents this section of road. It is only a small section of bitumen at the beginning and soon turns into gravel.
The coastal sand was becoming apparent now as there were deep pockets of loose sandy gravel that grabbed the front and rear wheels from time to time. It wasn't a threat to staying upright, but did cause some extra unexpected resistance to pedalling.
A few trucks past me in both directions, but were courteous. They slowed down and gave me plenty of room. The slowing down also helped not get covered in talcum powder like dust that covers the road.
Not much further and I was at the main entrance to the National Park, although the road I was cuts through the park, it is more of the access road to the real gem.
I hadn't been out here for ages and this was the first time on a bike. Last time I was out in the four wheel drive the road was solid with little sand covering the track. As I entered it appeared to be no different. But, it wasn't long before I encountered small pockets of sand filled holes. One that did force me to lose balance. I didn't come off, but I did get some good scrapes up one leg from the flat pedals I had fitted, fitted for this very reason, getting my foot to the ground quickly.
As I spied up ahead I could see the solid bits of track, so meandering across the road from side to side helped alleviate any further shocks...until...
Now, I only had around a kilometre to go to the camp site, but this was certainly the hardest section of the track. All the recent rain we had had helped wash sand from the nearby dunes down onto the track. There was no solid track to filter out anymore, only boot deep loose sand. There was no way of riding through it, not on a mountain bike.I have a friend who warned me, stating a fat bike was better. But I don't have a fat bike, and I was here now.
Walking was the only way through. Each step sinking deep into the soft sand whilst struggling with the front wheel sinking in as well. This made it extremely difficult to push the bike through. On I pushed, and then I'd rest, push, then rest, and so on until I saw the sign I was longing for, Camping 600 mt. This entrance to camp site would be much easier as it has timber laid under the sand to help with traction. Some reprieve, a rest...
But this wasn't so, the rain and strong winds had helped cover the timber planks well beneath deep sand. Six hundred metres more of drudging through sand. Push, sink, rest, the pattern continued.
Eventually I did make it. My plan was to take my time and look for a decent site to set up the hammock. I was so knackered that I took the first site I saw. Between two trees, right on the edge of the dunes with an outlook to die for...
I emptied some kit of the bike, made a coffee and began to heat up some lunch. It was 3:30 pm by now and I was starving. I had been experimenting with my own home made dehydrated foods, so as my lunch re-hydrated in hot water I began to set up the hammock. Unfortunately by now the wind had really began to rip in from the water, and blowing the hammock out like a parachute, I had to move. Even attempting to put a tarp up to help block the wind proved nigh impossible.
I walked back along the track I had entered on the way in. I was down behind the dunes here and the wind was merely a refreshing breeze at best. I found a suitable spot in a thicket of coastal scrub and began hauling all my gear back. All I wanted to do was eat and rest, blurgh!!!
It didn't take that long, and I was set up and resting peacefully as the evening set in. Lunch turned to dinner and the hip flask of brandy was brought out to celebrate my first day's ride...
The next day's plan was to continue through the Park southward. This would take through the heart of the Kinkuna section and bring me out onto Woodgate Road. I would then fill up some water bottles and make my way through to Burrum Point where there is a fantastic camping area. Then after that I would work my way west for Childers and make my way home through Cordalba State Forest.
Unfortunately, like a lot of my trips, this did not go to plan. During the night the announcement was made that due to Coronavirus that all camping areas, and the vast majority of National Parks and State Forests would be closed. This put a bee in my bonnet, I really wanted to do this. But what can you do. I did umm and ahh over whether to continue, surely one lonely figure on a bicycle wouldn't attract too much attention. But I didn't.
After a few slurps of brandy and a final cuppa I headed off to bed for my first time camping in a hammock. The hammock was a reasonably cheap one purchased off Amazon. It was a warm night with a slight cool breeze, just enough to stop me sweating and keep me comfortable. I fell asleep rather quickly under the stars as I didn't bother putting the tarp up over me.
It was around 11.00 pm when some dickheads thought it was the perfect time to go four wheel driving with their spot lights ablaze. One vehicle broke down right near where I was camped and they started to attempt to fix it, all lights on, yelling and making a right ruckus, not cool at all. I called out to keep it down but after that they got the heap of shit they were driving going and revved off into the night.
After a few other late night passes by other vehicles the night's sleep was not great. The morning came around way too soon and I was groggy from the bad night. Up and water on for a much needed double strength coffee I started to slowly pack up gear that wasn't needed in preparation the ride home.
Coffee, well make that two, went down a treat along with some cereal bars and I finished getting packed up and loaded. Now began the trudging trip back through the soft sand. I was held up a few times by some four wheel drives getting bogged. Why people don't know by now that tyre pressure is paramount through sand I don't know. Anyway I continued on stopping regularly for a rest. The bad night's sleep was taking it's toll and I hadn't even got out of the Park yet. At least the traffic was to a minimal. The morons from the night before were either still laid up or had left. This was a good thing, I can only imagine, by the way they were driving what I would have had to encounter.
Finally out of the sand and back on solid gravel the trip became a lot easier and less tiring. I was making my way reluctantly home.
All in all, even though it was a small adventure, it was an adventure after all. It was great to get out and ride this section and one day soon I hope to retry it, hopefully with no CoVid 19 around.
In the end these trips are what they are. You can either enjoy them or hate them. No matter what happens on a trip I count it as part of the adventure and it all adds to the experience.
Cheers guys...
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